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Serving Western Washington since 1998.
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MAKE POCKET COVERS
to access counter weights without removing interior casing
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Manufacturers of original double-hung windows often anticipated that the window would live longer than the pure cotton sash cords.
To facilitate replacing the sash cords they often provided an access hatch in the (vertical) jamb. These pocket covers can be found in either the track for the lower sash (as in the image to the right) or in the track for the upper sash. Once you have removed the sashes it will be clear whether your window has pocket covers or not. You will see a gap in the wood in the dado for the parting bead. |
The existing pocket cover was removed to reveal the cast iron counter weight inside the pocket.
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If the cover is in the lower sash track you will see both the top and bottom horizontal cuts. One or both may have a screw holding the cover in place.
If the cover is in the upper sash track you may have to do a little digging through layers of paint to find the screw. Usually you will see a slight dimple in the paint. Often there is no screw at the top of the cover. Two nails and matching notches inside the pocket will hold the top in place. Once you've removed the lower screw, pulling the pocket cover down will free it up. |
IF THERE IS NO POCKET COVER, FOLLOW THE STEPS BELOW TO MAKE ONE.
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DETERMINING COVER SIZE
Make the pocket cover large enough so that you can pull the weights out. This will allow you to see if the weights match the sash's weight (weigh them). The weight of each pair of weights ought to be within 10% of the weight of the sash they balance. To determine the size of the cover needed, follow the procedure to the right of the image. |
Grab the sash cord just outside the pulley and pull it out all the way. This will mark where the top of the pocket cover needs to be cut.
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On an intact cord, with the weight resting at the bottom of the pocket, grab the cord just outside the pulley.
Pull the cord out until the weight (gently) hits the back side of the pulley. Where your fingers are, make a mark on the jamb. This is where you will make the top cut for the cover. The bottom cut should be about 3 inches above the sill. |
Frame with stops, sashes, and parting beads removed.
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The left image shows the frame with the interior stop, sashes, and parting bead removed. The right image shows where the top horizontal cut ought to be, as determined by the method described above. If your sashes are equal in size, it doesn't matter which cord you use to determine the top cut location. If the sashes are different in size, use the cord for the larger sash (usually the lower). |
My thumb marks where the upper edge of the pocket cover needs to be.
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Making the bottom cut, starting at the right end, working left. Angle saw blade up.
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In order to avoid ruining your saw blade, pull the weights up and tie a knot in the old cord, to keep the weights from being hit by the blade.
If the cord is broken and you have no way of pulling the weights out of the way.....be very, very careful as you push the blade through the wood. (L) Using a multi-tool with a wood cutting blade, make the bottom cut, angling the blade up about 30 degrees. (R) Make the top cut holding the blade angled down. This provides a surface for replacing the cover. |
Making the top cut, starting right and working left. Angle the blade down.
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Making the outside vertical cut inside the parting bead dado.
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(L) Make the outer vertical cut inside the dado that holds the parting bead. (R) Use the seam between the interior casing and the jamb as your inner vertical cut. You may have to cut through one or two nails to free the cover. If you have a metal cutting blade you can use it, or you can use a hack saw blade. If the seam is too tight to insert the blade, use a stiff putty knife to (gently) pry the seam open a bit. Be careful not to split the casing material. |
With a metal-cutting blade (or hack saw blade) you can cut through the nails that hold the casing to the jamb.
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b
Notice how the pocket cover is large enough to allow removal of the weight.
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(L) Save the pocket cover.
Remove weights and old cords. Remove any debris that may have collected at the bottom of the pocket (inside wall). (R top) To re-rope attach a length of chain to the new sash cord using tape. Feed the chain through the pulley until it shows up in the opening. Pull the new cord through. Continue feeding the cord through the other 3 pulleys. This continuous system is faster than having to fasten the cord to the chain four times. I start feeding the cord through one of the pulleys above the access hole, then the one next to it, then the opposite side above the access hole, and finally the one next to it. |
There are many ways to thread the new cord through the pulleys. I prefer a length of chain.
Thread all four cords continuously for efficiency.
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DETERMINING THE CORRECT SASH CORD LENGTH.
If the sashes are equal height, the cord for the upper sash should hold the weights slightly up off the sill, while the lower sash cord should protrude an inch or six through the pulley. If the upper cords are too long the weights will "bottom out" before the upper sash has been raised all the way up. If they are too short it will be difficult to put the parting bead back in place after attaching the cords to the sashes. If the lower sash cords are too short, the sash won't close. If they are too long the weights will "bottom out" before the sash is fully raised. |
Cords of the proper length (in this example for equal-size sashes) will allow maximum throw of the window while preventing cords from getting stuck in the pulleys.
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If the lower sash cord is too long there also is a risk that when the cord goes slack (when the weights hit bottom), the cord could jump the pulley and get stuck.
If the upper sash is substantially shorter than the lower sash, the lower sash cords can be knotted right outside the pulley (with the weights resting on the sill). If you are worried that the knot will slip out of the knot hole in the side of the sash, you may use a small nail to fasten it. The nail will secure the cord without damaging cord fibers. Don't use screws for this. Screws will cut the cord fibers and weaken the cord. |
Screws act as temporary handles during reinstallation.
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RE-INSTALLING THE POCKET COVER. (L) Put two screws in the exterior face of the pocket cover. These will act as "handles" during reinstallation. (R) I use a 5-minute epoxy to glue the cover back in place. Glue goes on top, bottom, and interior seam (between casing and cover). The seam inside the parting bead dado remains free. During curing of the glue I position a mixing stick in this last seam, to provide pressure to hold the cover in place. Once the horizontal seams have been sanded smooth, the cover is practically invisible. |
I use a 5-minute epoxy to fasten the cover in place.
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Finish the process by removing the screws and sanding the horizontal cuts smooth.
Alternatively you can hold the pocket cover in place with screws, but you will have to shim between the cover and the jamb to make up for the wood lost during cutting.
Alternatively you can hold the pocket cover in place with screws, but you will have to shim between the cover and the jamb to make up for the wood lost during cutting.