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Serving Western Washington since 1998.
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Painting Double-hung Windows.
Once your double-hung windows' proper function has been restored, the next, very important step is to paint it properly.
This means not painting it shut, and making sure that the paint will last. The following section will address some of the common issues associated with this process.
This means not painting it shut, and making sure that the paint will last. The following section will address some of the common issues associated with this process.
INSTRUCTIONS.
Follow the paint manufacturer’s instructions regarding preparation of surfaces, and application of paint. Avoid disturbing paint that contains lead. If you know there is lead-containing paint, or suspect it, take proper precautions. Information can be found on government web sites including: "Steps to lead safe Renovation, Repair, and Painting" or in the "Lead" section on this website.
General Rule: Paint all parts of the sashes and frame that are exposed when the windows (both upper and lower sashes) are in the closed position. Do not paint over seams between moving parts, rather cut in from both sides towards the seam. This will avoid paint wicking in between the sashes and portions of the frame, which would seal the window shut. Four Exceptions: 1. Do paint the exterior window sill normally covered by closed lower sash (raise lower sash); 2. Meeting rail faces (center horizontal bars where upper and lower sash meet) which are visible when the windows are opened (primarily the portion facing in). 3. Do not paint the vertical interior stop's backside (the thin surface against which the inside face of the lower sash slides up and down). 4. Do paint those areas at the top of the upper sash and bottom of the lower sash interiors that become visible when you move the sashes up or down (but beware you do not close them until after the paint has dried or you may glue the sashes shut). After painting, while the paint is still wet, gently move the sashes up and down a few times. Let the paint dry with both sashes opened a few inches. If sticking occurs, wait till the paint has fully dried and then use a utility knife and score through the offending bead of paint. If you do this while the paint is still wet you will push wet paint between the friction surfaces glueing the sashes shut. Hardware: Do not paint the locks, handles, wheel of the pulley, the ropes, or the metal weather-stripping (if present). Locks and handles should be removed prior to painting, all other hardware covered with masking tape. Paint onto the glass: To enhance the lifetime of wood sashes, the paint, and the glazing compound, paint must extend onto the glass, both inside and outside. This is the final seal that keeps moisture from reaching the wood. Avoiding paint on the glass may result in a “neat” appearance, however it will allow moisture to seep behind the paint and rot the wood. It will also push the paint off from underneath. "But I don't want to see the backside of the exterior paint when looking out the window!" When done correctly, the beads of paint extending onto the glass on the inside and the outside cancel each other out. Prior to painting, clean the glass, and allow to dry thoroughly. During painting allow paint to get onto the glass (see images to right). Once the paint dries, place a thin putty knife or other blade parallel to the painted surface with the thin edge onto the glass. Use a razor blade to remove excess paint from the glass on the outside of the putty knife, leaving a bead of paint the thickness of the putty knife on the glass. Because you already cleaned the glass you will not scratch the glass with dirt as you scrape the paint off. Please note that this method works well on the exterior (smooth) surface of privacy glass (in a bathroom for instance), but not on the textured interior of privacy glass. Here you will have to rely on a steady hand (or spend many hours laboriously removing excess paint....). QUESTIONS: If this is not clear, or if you have other questions or concerns, please give Martin a call (no text) at 206-525-5575 or email info@doublehungwindowrestoration.com. |
What can happen if you don't do it right....
This image is taken from the outside, looking in. The exterior glazing compound has been removed. The green stuff is actual moss growing between the glass and the wood of the sash. This is what can happen if you do not extend the paint onto the glass and moisture penetrates between the glass and the wood.
This image shows the exterior of a sash with wood stops that hold the glass in. Because the paint was not extended onto the glass, water got between the glass and the wood. The moisture soaked into the wood and got trapped beneath the paint. When the window received sun exposure vapor pressure built up beneath the paint and literally pushed it off the wood. A properly executed paint job can last 5 - 15 years. This job was done 4 years ago...
Decaying wood due to moisture trapped beneath the paint.
Yes, those are mushrooms growing on the inside of the window.....
Getting it right:
Extend the paint well onto the glass.
Let the paint is dry completely. Place a putty knife (or in this case a tape knife) at a right angle onto the glass, touching the glazing compound (exterior) or wood (interior).
Using a razor blade, scrape away excess paint on the outside of the blade.
This leaves a bead of paint the thickness of the blade on the glass in a perfectly straight line, forming a perfect seal.
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A PDF version of these painting instructions can be found in the link below.
| painting_instructions_double-hung_windows.pdf |